Dublin: Where cold winds, hot scrums, and history collided
TOUR DIARY, WEEK FOUR: In the land of the Vikings, it was South Africa’s own Viking, RG Snyman, who marked his 50th Test in perfect fashion – celebrating the milestone with a win over Ireland at his old stomping ground, the Aviva Stadium.
The week in Ireland began in biting cold, with temperatures plunging across the country. Schools closed, drivers were warned to take care, and pedestrians were advised to “waddle like penguins” to stay upright on the icy streets.
For a Gautenger who has never had to waddle in her life, the struggle was very real – especially while relying on public transport and trekking long distances to and from bus stops.
The Springboks were based at the Radisson, about 45 minutes by bus from where I was staying in the city centre. Stepping onto the sprawling grounds of their hotel for the first time felt like walking onto the set of Game of Thrones or Vikings.
The old Georgian manor, built in 1750 on land once owned by Viscount Fitzwilliam, is a treasure to explore – full of character, history, and fireplaces warming every public room.
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The hearings of Franco Mostert and Lood de Jager disrupted the Springboks’ preparation while the Irish media were out in full force, attending all the press conferences.
Last Monday, coach Mzwandile Stick handed the media exactly what they were waiting for, offering pointed comments about the Springboks’ treatment after two consecutive red cards. Laptops snapped open, and reporters began hammering away at their keyboards right there in the team hotel.
The cold increased as the week progressed, and by Wednesday morning, it was close to -1 at the Dublin University’s training field where the Springboks had prepared for the big Test.
Matchday finally arrived, and as I made my way down the famous Lansdowne Road toward the stadium, the pubs were heaving with Springbok supporters. Guinness in hand and Afrikaans songs echoing into the cold Dublin air, they were warming up for the showdown ahead.
After a gargantuan scrum performance, the Springboks outplayed the Irish, no thanks to several yellow and a red card being dished out – this time going the way of the team in white, that being Ireland.
Afterwards, RG told me he wasn’t sure what kind of welcome he would get from the crowd, as a Leinsterman running out in the Green and Gold. But they delivered with huge applause and made the moment very special for him.
It felt like that was where the tour should end, on a high and with four big wins in the bag, but on we go to Cardiff in Wales for the last hoorah.
